Restored Land Rover SERIES 3 1980 SWB 88" 2286CC petrol hardtop 42150m For Sale

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Series 3 88 inch
Previous Owners: 
Item Location: 
Chichester, United Kingdom
Drive Side: 
Right-hand drive
Four Wheel Drive
Exterior Color: 
Tow Bar
In-Car Audio: 
AM/FM Stereo, CD Player
Engine Size: 
Safety Features: 
4-Wheel Drive
MOT Expiry: 
Registration Information: 

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Description Restored Land Rover SERIES 3 1980 SWB 88" 2286CC petrol hardtop 42150m

These old Series Land Rovers are an acquired taste.  Please read the ONLY BID IF section at the
end of this listing.
I am semi retired and restore Landy's for a hobby, buying them and
renovating them.
I also
work to order, .I.E. you specify the model and colour of Landy and I obtain one
to suit you, and then renovate it to the level shown in this listing. 
I also rust proof Land Rovers that people already own. 
I see my task is to
restore the vehicle and set it up properly for the next 35 years of use.  The job is done properly regardless of time
or cost.  However, these old Land Rovers
are better suited to agricultural work than driving on a motorway.  PLEASE read this listing all the way
through to the end BEFORE making a bid. 
PLEASE come and see the vehicle and test drive it before bidding.  Access to the vehicle is available at ANY
TIME up to the end of the listing
My restoration principle is to restore the vehicle to original as much
as possible using new parts built in the original way.  I never buy used parts or panels unless they
are major panels (such as a undamaged roof) in excellent condition.   Parts subject to corrosion (such as doors
and door tops) are always new.  Rubber
seals are replaced as necessary and that will be shown in the information below. 
I re-use the original bolts and nuts as much as possible as this helps
to maintain the cars original, genuine character.  I don't normally use stainless steel bolts
unless requested in non critical areas. Exactly why automotive companies DON'T
USE STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS is shown at the end of this listing
Any work with a safety consideration such a brakes, steering and cutting
out rust in a chassis etc I have undertaken by qualified independent businesses
who have much more specialist equipment than it pays me to have.  It is also better for my insurance premiums!
I pressure spray inside the chassis and bulkhead using Phosphoric
Acid.  Phosphoric Acid converts rust up
to 10mm thick!  That is approximately 5 times
thicker than the steel in the chassis and bulkhead.  The rust becomes a non ferric protective
layer that cannot rust again.  It is
actually better galvanising! The converted protective layer can then be painted
over as an inert stable surface. 
We used to do this to vehicles and trailers used on the salt lakes in
northern Australia (Google Dampier Salt to see what a salt field looks
like)  New vehicles and trailers were
scrapped after 3 years before they had to be thrown away until we started treating
them with phosphoric acid
Rust worse than surface rust is replaced, either with a brand new part or
is cut out and new steel welded into place.
I test each cylinders compression, check the spark delivery and then tune
the engine.  I put in a distributor
overhaul kit and new spark plugs if it is called for.
On this car I
Installed a new battery with 3 year warranty
tuned and tested the engine and the cooling
tested all lights and electrics and I undertook
any small repairs and replacements needed.
Checked the vehicle over generally for
mechanicals and once all the oily bits and spannering were complete it was time
for painting.
The vehicle has been painted in original cellulose paint which can now
only be purchased for use on classic cars such as this one.  Although it costs a lot more than modern
acrylic water based paints it is well worth it in terms of practicality and
originality. I spray paint, using professional high quality brand primers and
new door tops on passenger and drivers side
better roof - This one has the added advantage
of a fitted radio and speakers    and
better sides - as these have sliding windows
military bonnet- 
for a more rugged look
The colour is Olive Drab Matt. 
I have used a paint technique that results in a
non reflective finish so it s does look completely Matt.  Normal Matt paints are still reflective. 
painted it in such a way as to have a slightly
textured surface (like very fine baby shark skin) as this breaks up light rays
that are bouncing off the surface into a lot of different directions. It is a
military technique I learnt many years ago and can be used with all colours,
For someone who wants a desert look, then I use sand colour and for European
Forest I use Olive Drab as shown in the photos. When in situ the vehicle is
much harder to spot and I think it looks really authentic
I removed all "extras" from the
exterior and interior before spray painting. This included the front grill,
light fittings front and rear, and removed the seats and the seat belts before
spray  painting. 
Removed the roof, sides and rear door'
Removed the door tops on both sides and threw
them away.
Masked up the glass inside and outside of
vehicle and the rear vision mirrors.
Masked up all of the appropriate areas of the
roof, sides and rear safari door.
Sanded all metal surfaces inside and outside of
the car
The car had no structural rust other than one
small patch on the chassis.  This was
ground out and then plated with new steel and welded in by a repairer as it could
be put up on a hoist and got at properly. 
The chassis having been sprayed inside with Phosphoric Acid, was later
sprayed externally thus completely protecting it against rust.
Some fittings and bolt heads and nuts had the
normal surface rust which I treated with Phosphoric acid stopping the rust
completely. (See elsewhere in the listing for more on this treatment)
Painted all exposed bare metal with etching
Painted all surfaces with primer
Painted the entire exterior in Matt Olive Drab
(the normal military look colour)
Painted all inside up to the top of rear tub
level with satin black.  This means that
in future when you mark the inside, you can simply buy a can of Satin Black
from any hardware shop and touch it up as good as new yourself..  It also looks great!
Inside of rear walls above the tub top was painted
in Matt Olive Drab to match exterior when looking through the windows
Once the paint had hardened off, I replaced all
of the internal and external fittings.
I replaced all of following seals with new
original rubber seals and then re-assembled the walls and roof.  New seals replaced include, windscreen to bulkhead,
windscreen to roof, side walls and tub, side walls and roof, rear door seal,
side door seals and bonnet to front bulkhead high temperature proof seal, new
neoprene rubber inserts for bonnet hinges, new rear safari door upper hinge
pins (these usually worn out after 35 years)
All wheels painted in Matt Olive Drab to match
the car.  I have used a paint technique
that results in a non reflective finish so it s does look completely Matt.  The spare wheel on the bonnet has been
painted on both sides as it is normally carried upside down on the bonnet, but
should you need to use it, it will match the car when in road use
Roof, sides and rear safari door were painted on
painting stands whilst off the vehicle to get the best finish. Landy's are
quite tall and difficult to paint with these in situ. 
The car can easily be touched up inside and out
by an amateur due to the choice of paint and the painting technique
I do not normally use body filler! 
I prefer to paint over small imperfections leaving them visible.  Land Rovers are subject to a lot of vibration
and this can be really bad for filler which ends up cracking and even flaking and
looking much worse that the small dents you are trying to cover up.  It even falls out!    If there is a bad dent , I replace the
panel.  I think a 35 year old Land Rover
should have small flaws.  If it is too
perfect it looks wrong. I think my Landy's are good looking honest cars that
are properly overhauled
The engine is the original normal 3 bearing Landy engine with the number
matching the V5.  The compression tests
and the exhaust emissions on the MOT all indicate a very, very tight motor
consistent with low mileage or a rebuilt engine.
The odometer says 42150 at time of writing.  The MOT certificate AND the DVLA database
history shows
10/12/2014      42,122 Miles
19/12/2013      41,147 Miles
15/12/2008      40,372 Miles
30/08/2007      37,694 Miles
01/09/2006      37,679 Miles
Of course the odometer may have replaced over the past 35 years,
although to me it looks original. There is no firm documentary evidence as the
DVLA and MOT records only go back approximately 10 years.  So, I assume the mileage is not correct
We overhauled the gear selector mechanism so it s nice and tight with
good movement and no strange noises. 
Good positive gear changes,  Its
tested in all gears and drive configurations for the MOT and so you know its
It is tight as new.  Due to their
age most Landy's Series have worn gear selector mechanisms.  Luckily these are technically easy to
overhaul and the parts are cheap.  BUT does
take an inordinate amount of time making this an job that cost hundreds of
pounds in a workshop. I overhaul them as standard when I strip the floor panel
The steering is tight for a land rover.  This is because front axle swivel joints
renewed in December 2008
The MOT TEST checks the drive train in 2WD, 4WD, and High
and Low ranges and it passed with flying colours so you know it is good.  The drive train is solid and normal throughout
driving solidly down the road.  There is
some deterioration to offside front and rear Leaf springs but they are not
seriously weakened, passed the MOT and they will still last many years.  You can replace the individual leaves affected
or simply replace both the front and back entire springs for £112.80 (vat
inc).  It's mainly cosmetic and truly, I
wouldn't bother.
new Battery with 3 year warranty
new matching door lock Barrels and Keys in all three
doors.  (One key opens all doors which is
not usually the case with old Landy's AND you get 6 matching door keys (3 x 2
keys per lock)).
new screen washer fluid pump being an exact
replacement for the old one AND the water bottle is still the original
new 3 Deluxe front seats. The centre seat on
most Landy's is not fixed and does not have a seatbelt although you can buy the
fitting and easily install to allow this. It is normally mostly used for
keeping your stuff off the floor.
new rubber floor mats front and rear
new handbrake gaiter and gear stick rubbers
new matching door lock Barrels and Keys in all
three doors.  (One key opens all doors
which is not usually the case with old Landy's AND so you get 6 matching door
keys (3 locks x 2 keys per lock)).
new fan belt
gear selector mechanism overhauled
lots of gaskets, rubber bushes and even the
thermostat have all been replaced. Receipts supplied with car)
freewheeling hubs
5 tyres and rims in very good condition with lots
of tread.
dual tow balls front and back 
front protective bars - fitted with an expensive
non standard set of front aluminium front protective bars incorporating a tow
ball and spot lamp mounting points. I will also supply the original galvanised
Radio/CD player and speakers incorporated  into the roof above the front seats. (see the
photo). This is earthed but the positive power inward wire has not been
connected yet).
There is a power loom and connector to the radio
area in the dash so you can move the radio down there if you prefer.
Recent MOT dated 10th December 2014
The car can easily be touched up inside and out
by an amateur due to the choice of paint and the painting technique
Registration mark (Car plate number) valued at
£600.00 (I have the letter from
No overdrive to go scream as you drive and go
wrong.  I really try to avoid buying  car with an overdrive. The more common
overdrives can be awkward to use, troublesome to maintain and really don't make
much of a practical difference for people using these Landy's in the way most
of us use them, low mileage second cars. 
If you want to use the Landy a lot, it is better to add a  4 cyl LPG conversion for £760.00.  This is really pays as I am paying 59.9p per
litre right now.  Using my high
performance super luxury, LWB Mercedes S500 is just so cheap and lots more fun
than one of those economy tin boxes that my girl friend drives.,  I can't actually travel far in her car as all
legs don't fit without jamming them in. 
Using LPG is cheaper to fit than an overdrive, saves
a heck of a lot more money than an overdrive and doesn't deafen you
There was a radio in the dash a some prior point but this has been
removed and the panel has not yet been replaced.  There is a wiring loom and connection block
in place ready to go so it should be a simple job
The door seals are all brand new and so make closing the doors just a
bit more stiff than normal.  Of course
this will resolve itself with use.
The seat belts are not inertia reel. 
I am not sure this is actually a bad point but I thought to highlight
it.  I actually like them because they
don't get stuck.  With landy's my motto
is "Keep it simple"
The insides of the cockpit and the rear tub are black,
and so I can't get a good shot of the rear interior. It is Satin Black and has
a dark car carpet fixed to the entire ceiling to give you insulation and sound
This car starts on the
button, with no overheating, hesitancy or misfiring.  It has an all synchromesh gearbox with a
fluid but precise gear change action. 
Steering is excellent (by Series standards), good ride and non of the
common transmission backlash etc. There really is nothing to criticise, and
it's up there with the best Series 3's I or you will have ever driven.
are welcome to come & inspect the vehicle and test drive it. You can have
it independently inspected at any time before committing to purchase.  E-mails with questions will be answered. You
can ring me on 07783 685 042 if there are any aspects you wish to discuss.  Text me your email address if you want
further specific photos.  I have added
the maximum number of photos I am allowed. 
I cannot swap photos around after some bids as e-bay does not allow
that.   I cannot include an email address
or a URL in wither the listing or the e-bay message system
Pickup by buyer preferred.  Not long after I purchased this car I drove
it 550 miles round trip in one day and it drive perfectly, and that was before
I started work on it,. You can reliably get here by train (or flight from
overseas) and drive it home.  It won't
let you down. I m happy to help with delivery throughout the UK & overseas.
Contact me by telephone on O7783 685 042 or text me to discuss.
YOU have not owned or driven old series land rovers in the
past, otherwise move on. These old cars are an acquired taste.  In the recent past I have had someone turn up
for a car, tell me he haven't ever ridden in one or driven one and they were
not what he expected and wanted to cancel the sale meaning I can lose money.  Someone else wanted to pay it off over time
because he didn't have the cash!
This auction is a legally binding contract to buy THIS car.
The sale is not subject to your approval after the auction ends!  You have plenty of time to inspect and drive
the vehicle before the Auction ends
If you make the winning bid and don't take the car it means
I have to re-advertise it and may lose money and time.  If that happens you will be responsible for
my costs and any money I lose on a resale at a lower price.  Make no mistake, I WILL SUE you for the loss
once the damages can be crystallised.  I
will also seek a costs order for costs expended and my time at the court
appointed rate for a LAWYER OF MY LEVEL of my level.  So, please --- let us not mess each other
Why not use Stainless steel bolts in a car? Mercedes, Ford and other
auto manufacturers don't use stainless steel in cars because this is a soft and
weak alloy material and instead they use have to high tensile steel. Stainless
has a sheer strength rating that can be a disaster in auto accidents.  To put in simply the panels etc can shear
straight through a stainless steel bolt whereas they can't sheer through a high
tensile bolt.
Also, vibration causes stainless steel bolts and nuts to work loose (although
using modern locking nuts helps) and the parts come loose and/or cease to
If you want  to make a
serious offer for an early end, please telephone me,   or   send
me a message via e-bays message system .. 
or  .. text me your email address
on 07783 685 042 and I will email you directly.
I will not disclose the reserve price

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